Welcome to EnviroDIY, a community for do-it-yourself environmental science and monitoring. EnviroDIY is part of 
@srgdamiano
Active 1 months, 2 weeks agoForum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
What?? You haven’t read all the docs?? Actually, I don’t remember how well documented the build flags are. Writing good documentation is hard.
Are you using transparent or bypass? You can remove the build flags for whatever you’re not using. You also don’t need the MQTT flag, it only applies to ThingSpeak (or anything else MQTT). You also don’t need the NeoSWSerial flag unless you’re using that library. Having those extra defines shouldn’t be a problem though. Any build flag that starts with a ‘-D’ is the same as typing “#define” in your code. When you hit “build” one of the first steps is for the pre-processor to essentially find-and-replace everything you’ve “defined” with the value you’ve defined it as.
Jake must have just updated TinyGSM. I’d added a line to the debugging just a few days ago but screwed up and tried to print the value of a pointer. I just fixed that and pushed. You can both update again (“pio lib update”).
If you have an Arduino mega or other board with more than two serial ports available, I find debugging the modem can be a bit easier if you can “snoop” the modem Rx and Tx lines with a separate board.
It would help me to help you if you would be more verbose and detailed in your responses.
You didn’t answer whether you, yourself, had every succeeded in communicating with the sensor in any other way. I assume that means no.
You’re using example code that includes code for a small screen? Do you have one? If not, it might be easier to use the “GetValues” example instead of the “DisplayValues” one.
Up to now you had been telling me you were using a NodeMCU, now you’re mentioning an Arduino Mini. Your picture looks like you’ve cobbled the two together. Is the NodeMCU the main brain? What does the Arduino Mini do?
An Arduino mini can be either 5V or 3.3V. It should be labeled on the back of the Mini – check. The NodeMCU is always 3.3V. The Yosemitech requires a minimim of 5V power. Most level shifters are either labeled or have an in and out voltage based on what is connected on each side. Trace your wires so you know what voltages you have on both sides of the shifters. Please write it down so you and the next person the project gets dumped on will know.
The adapter you linked, which I’m guessing is the blue board on the top right of your picture, does NOT have automatic flow control. You must connect the DE and RE from your adapter to each other and the two of them together to some pin on your main control board. It looks like you have at least one of them connected to D0 (or D1?), but I can’t tell if you’ve tied them together or left one floating. If one is floating, rewire so they are tied together. You also need to change line 35 of your code to use the correct pin, as it says in the instructions in your code. The code you have now is not correct and would NOT work for your current setup.
Whether or not the setup you have worked for someone else before you, it’s apparently yours now, so trace wires and make notes until you understand all of the connections.
@ayechan – do you have a specific problem or are you looking for general instructions? If you have a specific problem, please create a new topic with a detailed description of your setup and problem.
If you are looking for instructions, start by reading the sensor manual provided by Yosemitech. If possible, connect the sensor to you computer using an RS485 to USB adapter and the Yosemitech ModbusRunner software. (The software is here if you need it: https://github.com/EnviroDIY/YosemitechModbus/tree/master/utilities/WindowsSoftware.) After that, read the documentation for the Yosemitech Modbus library (https://github.com/EnviroDIY/YosemitechModbus). Then test out the examples in that library. If you come up with a problem on the way, please create a new topic with a detailed description of your setup and problem.
That configuration looks good to me. Let me know if you see any bugs I can smash.
Yes, that’s what it should have done. I don’t see any obvious reason why it wouldn’t have, other than that it clearly didn’t. The single battery measurement was on the low side (only 3.6) so it is possible that your battery just died.
I made an issue for myself to fix this: https://github.com/EnviroDIY/ModularSensors/issues/304 Unfortunately, that doesn’t give you back lost data.
Oh. Oops.
The data was probably rejected because of the timestamp. The clock resets itself to 2000-01-01T00:00:00 – but then ModularSensors applied a negative offset to it assuming you wanted the file to be in UTC-6 with an RTC set in UTC. That caused a weird rollover (roll-under?) giving you a timestamp of 2000-01-01 252:211:00. MonitorMW would have rejected that time purely based on syntax (hours and minutes must be two digits). Obviously, the developer of ModularSensors did not do sufficient testing for this scenario. I’m sorry.
I didn’t try running it, but there’s nothing that jumps out at me in a very quick glance through the code. Did the SD card have data on it?
That does seem worthy of a new thread; those are the Bee’s we’re using so I’m more familiar with them. They’re easier for us to get (no international shipping), similar in price, have carrier certification, and have a secondary processor that takes care of the baud rate trouble.
I don’t think we’ve had any yet that were DOA, but we have managed to completely kill two or three of them without quite knowing how.
Was anything recorded on the SD card?
-
AuthorPosts
